Autumn Products

Although I have put together the odd jam or syrup every year for at least three years now, I still consider myself an amateur at best when it comes to making preserves. Nevertheless, I feel I have got the gist of making certain products and what defines them in ingredient and technique. These are products that I consider 'autumn' products.

Savoury

I have made chutneys and ketchups before, but not many times. This year I made a Hawthorn ketchup with some added Sloes (the fruit of the blackthorn plant) as part of a gift bundle of foraged preserves (mainly because I am stone broke!) The ketchup came out brilliantly, with a subtle berry sweetness perfect with cheeses. I prefer it with halloumi or a goats cheese, but have had it in sandwiches regardless. I did not use many sloes, and they are more commonly used to make gins. Hawthorn has many medicinal attributes, mainly to do with the health of the heart and circulation.

 A jar and a half of Haw & Sloe Ketchup.

I made green tomato chutney twice this year. The first time was because I moved house before my tomato plants could ripen properly, and the second time was when there was a glut of green tomatoes at Feed Bristol, a community gardening site I volunteer at. The first batch, which amounted to just over a single jar, was good enough, if not slightly vinegary. Having attempted to cook green tomatoes in a number of ways, I must say that chutney is the best use for them, as the sugar, vinegar and other ingredients balances out that acidic tang.

The first batch of green tomato chutney

The second batch of green tomato chutney I made was with considerably more tomatoes, and of a wide variety as well, from red zebras to beef tomatoes and others. I threw in a few chillis as well for some sweet spiciness, and an apple that was overripe for some pectin. I think because of the wider variety of tomatoes used, this batch held more of a green colour to it. I am yet to open a jar yet, as I want to try and let the flavours set for at least a couple of weeks.

The second batch of green tomato chutney, this time with chilli

Sweet

Every year since finding a sizable swathe of rosehip bushes in Falmer, East Sussex, I have made rosehip syrup. It's flavour is interesting; floral, fruity, while also straddling both apple and citrus flavours. Rosehips are often used for their dense quantities of vitamin C, and so make a great autumn/ winter vitamin booster. I made this years syrup with both native dog rose hips, and also the rosehips of the Japanes rose (rosa rugosa) which are larger, slightly more watery and slightly less sweet. The mixture turned out well, however. 

A jar of rosehip syrup

As part of the previously mentioned gift, I also made a blackberry and crab apple jam and Haw fruit leather. The jam turned out wonderfully, as the blackberries and crab apple created less of a traditional 'jam' flavour, more of a pudding or a crumble flavour. The crab apple tree was an unexpected find, and was neatly hidden by hawthorn, blackthorn and blackberry brambles. 

Fruit leather is an ancient way of preserving fruit by drying a puree of boiled fruit spread thinly, allowing it to be cut into strips. With no moisture, the fruit lasts longer. I was concerned that the result would be too bitter, so I boiled the haws in apple juice for some sweetness. In the process of drying the puree in the oven, I left it too long and the edges of the leather became overdone, and very bitter. I have been assured by the gift recipient that the majority of the fruit leather is fine, however.

On the left, a jar of blackberry & crab apple jam, and on the right a jar of haw fruit leather

For the first time I attempted something other than syrup with rosehips. With a windfall apple from Feed Bristol and a small harvest of dog rose hips, I made this brilliantly coloured jam. The first step of preparation was the most tedious task I have ever set to do; removing all of the seeds and hairs from the rosehips. This is why making syrup is easier, as after being roughly chopped and boiled, all of the pulp, including said seeds and hairs, are strained through two sheets of muslin. I haven't opened this jam yet, and, apart from being slightly runny, it appears to be well set. Although sugar is an important part of making chutneys, ketchups and jams as it provides a preservation function, I am often concerned with the amount that goes in, and wish there was an alternative. I am not quite sure that honey would provide a similar function.